CUCINA LABIA
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Appetising, fresh and flavourful food
192 Main Rd, Muizenberg
Tel: 021-788 6062
Open Tuesday to Friday
11am to 4pm;
Saturday to Sunday 9:30am to 4pm
e-mail: www.casalabia.co.za
GPS: 34° 6’ S / 18° 27’ E
Elegant decor, period paintings and inventive cuisine make Cucina Labia well worth a visit. Traditional dishes are given a modern twist, writes JOSS BAKER.
THERE’S a fresh, young mood infusing stately Casa Labia on Muizenberg’s historic mile. This august landmark has had a chequered history: I’ve seen it through various transformations – even danced under the chandeliers in the ornate ballroom.
For I knew it in its heyday as a legation and the venue for receptions and lavish black-tie balls. When guests in formal finery flowed through the imposing entrance, and visiting lions fell prey to Cape Town’s social-climbing hostesses.
Built in 1929 by Count Natale Labia, all interior fittings – from furniture, chandeliers, to ceiling panels, ornate mirrors and wall fabrics – were imported to re-create the spirit of 18th century Venice and embellished with period paintings. While the balls are long gone, the treasures remain and as a destination and art gallery, it’s well worth a visit.
The count’s son Luccio felt it fitting that this treasure-trove should be shared with a wider public, and the property became a satellite museum of the South African National Gallery in 1988.
After a court battle over a stolen painting and the sale of land at well below market value, he regained ownership and the house was caringly restored and opened as a multi-functional cultural centre and café.
I admit I winced at the thought of club sandwiches being served in that gracious, gilded ambience. Happily, the café too has gone. The elegance is back, and the food demands attention.
Cucina catering is now in the hands of Andrea and Oscar Foulkes of Dish Food. Recognising the potential of young chefs Monché Muller and Simone van der Merwe, who recently returned after helping set up a restaurant in Dubai, they appointed the talented duo as joint head chefs – with Monché running the hot kitchen and Simone indulging in her passion for pastry.
Brimming with ideas and “with no to expectations to live up to”, they’re having fun. “The most fun so far,” says Monché “was trying to find a balance between Italian food and the fine dining food we were accustomed to. It’s been an interesting three-month journey!”
This playful aspect permeates their perfectly seasoned and inventive creations – like delicious tartlet-sized gluten-free “melk tert”. Says Simone: “I enjoy mixing traditional as well as unknown ingredients to create new, exciting dishes, drawing creativity from the giants whose shoulders I’m standing on.”
Friends since they met at the ICU (Institute of Culinary Arts), their career path is littered with awards and swift promotions. Monché has worked at icons like The Test Kitchen, where she rose to senior chef de partie and overall head chef, and at The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Françoise, where she was joined by Simone. And both refined their bread-making skills as baker and head pastry chefs at Jason Bakery.
Weather permitting, tables spill into an Italian-style courtyard with bougainvillea-covered arches and up-close views of the fynbos-covered mountainside, while the fountain-dominated front garden and terrace offer an edge-to-edge panorama of the False Bay coastline.
We uncoiled from the heat on the breeze-cooled terrace, glass of chilled bubbles in hand, admired the view and table linen, and studied the day’s menu. While the dishes are linked by an Italian thread, this is not robust Italian fare. It’s delicate, fresh and summery – as Simone puts it “twisting the traditional and turning it into something interactive and exciting.”
The artisan breads are moreish, and presented with butter wrapped like toffees, giant caper berries and olives, and a tomato relish that would be superb on pasta. But don’t fill up; there are more treats in store. As a starter, the wild mushroom arancini (stuffed rice balls) with burnt onion and gorgonzola cream is a flavour triumph, crisp on the outside and superbly presented. Sadly, my beef carpaccio with almond purée, and parmesan kataifi, dotted with balsamic jelly and deep-fried capers, was blander than it sounded. Possibly the beef was sliced when frozen.
As mains I was tempted by the spinach, pistachio and ricotta pie, but within the sound and sight of the ocean, I felt fish was obligatory. The sea-bass coated with nutty salsa agresto was perfectly cooked and delicately anointed with gin and roast lemon sauce, while my friend’s smile grew beatific as she lingered over cider-braised pork belly with crisp Serano ham and thinly sliced mange tout.
Desserts are addictive. The classic tiramisu is made with amaretto biscuits not substitute “sponge fingers”, while the homemade nougat with fig semi-freddo is the perfect finale to a relaxed summer lunch.
It’s not all roses. The interesting winelist offers only four wines by the glass, and the charming service tends to be scatty. Waitresses need more training, especially in clearing tables. That said, Dish is conscious of a need to empower people, and Oscar is working on the problem.