Jos Baker
Exquisite. That’s the only word that does justice to the seven-course tasting menu, currently enticing eyes and tantalising taste buds at this relaxed restaurant, where the open-plan kitchen takes centre-stage and the cast is smart in butcher’s aprons.
Nothing could have been more reassuring. For some two years back, my experience at Myoga was a fiasco. My escort and I, like teenagers, eventually took refuge in giggles as our hope that “the next course must be better” failed to materialise. The dishes were frozen, not fresh, and we crunched our way manfully through the crystals.
The problems began with the wines, which had an odd aroma, and even more off-putting taste. Turned out that four glasses had been contaminated in the dishwasher. Just guess who got two. (I hoped at the time that the other two patrons had not suffered in silence).
I was so appalled that I wrote to the restaurant, saying that the food was not of the quality I expected from chef/patron Mike Bassett, who was not on duty that night. But the experience left a sour taste.
For Mike’s credentials are impeccable. He has won most South African culinary accolades, including numerous Johnny Walker Top 10 awards as well as 5-star chef ratings. But as the saying goes, you’re only as good as your last meal. Ours was unacceptable.
Last week’s follow-up visit happily restored his reputation. The meal melded unexpected ingredients in a 3D edible art form that proved his skill and endorsed his statement: “I cook because that’s who I am; it’s a vocation and a passion and a desire to be good at what I do.” All the Myoga chefs share his passion, which filters through to efficient and friendly serving staff, who can talk knowledgeably about both menu and wines.
Myoga, so the menu informs us, is the Japanese name for what is part of the ginger family, grown especially for the edible flower buds and full-flavoured shoots. These, together with root ginger, are among Mike’s favourite ingredients. So be warned, expect the unexpected – though the menu accommodates both adventurous and conservative diners.
Those are the bare bones. But let’s add the meat. Mike’s motivation is true fusion. He believes that today’s diner should be able to savour the seamless integration of world-wide ingredients rather than the confusion of juxtaposed flavours. While some of the components might be unfamiliar, the result is a taste odyssey, extending from caramel soy pork belly with star anise apple purée, sichuan pepper dipping sauce and a phyllo cigar, to a deconstructed granny smith apple cake (with aromas like the apple crumble grandma baked).
You can take this rich and aromatic journey in the gentle setting of lush lawns and garden extending down to the river. And if you doubt your capacity to consume seven carefully sized courses, most are available on the current dinner menu.
But do try. Pace yourself, taking a refreshing break with a palate cleanser: fun combos include lime/ lemongrass with balsamic pearls. For the tasting menu – which allows you the freedom of choice in all categories from “begin” to “finish” with some surprises and ticklers from the kitchen thrown in – gives you an overview, showcasing the most popular items on the menu. Like a combo of confit duck, beluga lentils, braised guanciale (salami from pork jowl or cheeks, similar to bacon), raw honey and smoked sweet potato purée; and a playful version of a Scotch egg, with Grabouw lamb boerewors, curry spices, hanepoot jam and goats brie.
For me, the stand-out dish was a superbly cooked, innovative risotto under the heading “winter fashion”. (Hope that soon switches to spring.) Visualise butternut, stinging nettle, and blue-vein clotted cream, with naartjie flavours infusing the aftertaste, and toasted pistachios for added crunch.
Tops in the flavour stakes, falling under “surf ‘n turf”, were orgasmic shucked oysters, paired with oyster lemonade, diced alums, yuzu-soy caviar, egg white pearls, and the funky addition of bacon powder. Close contender, lightly smoked monkfish croquettes, releasing heady, smoky aromas when cut, were pillowed on puréed green pea pods, with the finishing touch of white mussel nasi goring-spiced hot foam and bottarga (salted, cured fish roe) shavings.
We were defeated by our main courses: lamb shawarma flavours in a steamed lamb chop, that included lemon goats cheese butter in the exotic mix; and baby kabeljou, pungent with hoisin, featuring both a bok choy exotic mushroom stir-fry and coconut smoked cucumbers.
While my London Cordon Bleu companion ended elegantly on a Granny Smith note, I was mistakenly talked into “black forest memories”. You are asked for you complete menu choices upfront. Had I known the size of the portions, I’d have pleaded lack of capacity. This decadent dessert is for serious chocoholics only. Wait for it: a luscious presentation of a cherry chocolate sphere, chocolate log, chocolate mousse (both cold and hot) chocolate variation, dark sponge, morello ice-cream, chocolate streusel and chocolate blini.
Wine-pairing is obviously subjective, and to my palate, some of the pairings overwhelmed the delicacy of the dishes. But knowledgeable young sommelier Carl Davis is keen to introduce diners to lesser-known wines from the Swartland and Hemel-en-Aarde valley, and his enthusiasm is infectious.
l Seven-course tasting menu R325. With wine pairing R565.Dinner menu: starters fromR95; mainsfromR185; desserts R65 to black forest memories at R75.